Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Day 9 - Hoi An, our last day...

Wow! Our last full day in Hoi An….. what to do? Shop I guess. So into town we went, after the morning ritual, to pick up our ordered shoes and grab a few last minute buys before we head home.

Tonight we had our final meal in Hoi An at Morning Glory restaurant, one of the more well known eateries in the town. We both stuck with traditional meals for the evening, Cau Lau for Michelle and Hoi An Pho for Murray to finish a brilliant 6 days in Hoi An. We then took a last stroll around the streets before heading back to the Hotel for the evening.

Morning Glory Restaurant in Hoi An

Hoi An Pho with papaya pickle

Cau Lau noodles with pork

Local shopkeepers taking a break on the streets of Hoi An

The entrance to the Ancient Town

Tomorrow we are picked up by Travel Indochina for the ride back to Da Nang and the flight to Ho Chi Minh City. We are stuck at the airport for several hours before heading back to Darwin overnight and arriving back in Australia at about 6am Friday morning.

We will miss Vietnam dearly. It is such a great country. The people are the most patient and friendly (if not a little persistent in the shopping areas!) around and the food is to die for. We absolutely love this place! Would we come back? In a heartbeat…. In fact, we have tickets booked for a return in November and to complete the trilogy, we are planning on travelling to the north of the country taking in Hanoi, Halong Bay and Sapa. We will be blogging the trip again and the blog is simply entitled Danang Me 3! Get Your Dong Out!

We hope you can join us then….

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Day 8 - Hoi An

Today was pretty uneventful day spent finalising all our orders for clothes and shoes. Michelle has ordered a couple of cotton summer dresses and some casual shoes while Murray settled for a pair of 'Vans' shoes. The shoes will be ready for pickup tomorrow whilst the dresses Michelle ordered at 11am were ready by 5pm for pickup. There were some alterations required and we will grab the dresses tomorrow morning.

At this stage, our cases have well and truly hit the 20kg limit and somehow we will have to manipulate the stuff around in the carry-on to ensure we can get it all home.

On our last visit to Vietnam we came across a display of silk embroidery at the Saigon domestic airport by XQ Embroidery which we both fell in love with. Today we came across one of it’s stores in Hoi An and selected a framed silk embroidered ‘image’ of the Hoi An landscape as a memento of our stay. It was quite the shopping experience with a personal guide in traditional dress in the gallery, several girls embroidering as we viewed the artwork, a receipt that looked like a piece of artwork and gratis cold drinks served by hostesses whilst we awaited our selected embroidery being framed and packed.

Walking around the streets, we found a Chinese calligrapher who happily (for a price! $3..) translated Murray's name into Chinese characters on some parchment for framing.

During our day in the town, we also ensured we finished the obligatory t-shirt shopping before retiring back to the Hotel for the afternoon. That evening, we dined on the other side of the river tonight at our favourite crab haunt from our last trip over here. As per that trip, Murray dined on fried crab in salt with a mandatory cleansing ale, whilst Michelle enjoyed grilled prawns with lemongrass. The prawns served were at least 10 inches long and could easily have been mistaken for mini lobsters!! Cost? Well the crab was $A8 and the prawns, $A4.70… nice

The Thu Bon River at sunset

Murray increases the pace as he gets closer to the restaurant

View from the balcony of the restaurant overlooking Hoi An

The international lanterns in one of the parks in Hoi An

See you all tomorrow!

Monday, July 25, 2011

Day 7 - Hoi An

Our ‘rest’ day began at about 9am this morning, after the ritual morning swim and breakfast in the Hotel. We started with a trip to Hoi An and decided to do a little sightseeing. This ended up as a 3 hour walk circumnavigating the main town area and visiting a few of the main attractions along the way. We found the Japanese covered bridge with it’s built in temple and discovered the Cam Pho Communal House along the tree lined streets of the ancient town passing wood carving and lantern making workshops and stores. We also managed to pick up a few bargains on our way around the town including several t-shirts and polos, some weird and wondrous kitchen items and a traditional lampshade.

The small temple inside the Japanese bridge in Hoi An

 The tree lined streets of the Ancient Town

One of the old faces of Hoi An

Lantern heaven...only a few hundred to choose from

Incense burning at the shrine in the Cam Pho Communal House

After an exhausting walk, we ended up lunching at the Dingo Deli Café about 100 metres from the Hotel, where an enterprising aussie couple have set up shop serving western style meals and good old Lavazza coffee for those wanting a ‘break’ from Vietnam.

The rest of the afternoon was dedicated to laying, lazing and snoring before we decided to head back to Hoi An tonight to witness the town and river light up as it does on most evenings. 

Pushbikes for the adventurous at the Resort 

The ancient Japanese Bridge at night

 Restaurants lit up along the Thu Bon River 

One of the many Chinese style figurines illuminated on the river at night

Whilst in the town, Murray was fitted out for a pair of ‘Vans’ casual shoes for the princely sum of $15US (number 1 authentic john!). A late dinner of Hoi An pancakes (Banh Xeo) at Mermaid Restaurant ensued before heading back to the Resort to retire. I’m not sure it was a rest day in the true sense of the word, more an afternoon off….

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Day 6 - Cooking Classes

Today saw us head off on a half day cooking class (not floating as previously advertised). It started at one of the local café’s in Hoi An where we meet the rest of the willing participants. From there, our guide Mr An led us to the central Hoi An markets to show us the different fruit, vegetables and meat used in daily Vietnamese cooking. He also showed us many of the spices and utensils and explained all the goods throughout the myriad of stalls.

Mr An showing us the varieties of fruit at the market

On completion of the market education, we were boarded on a private boat to head up the Thu Bon River for a 30 minute ride to the Red Bridge Cooking School. The trip showed us Hoi An from the water and the abundance of life on the river as we cruised toward the school.

Fishing nets along the Thu Bon River 

One of the many tourist boats on the river 

Dropping some nets during the afternoon

Upon our arrival at the School, we were treated to some drinks before heading down to the ‘classroom’ right on the river bank and beginning our lessons. Our chef, whose name escapes us, was a laugh-a-minute guy who took us through series of dishes, each of which we all attempted at some stage. The program included preparation and the cooking of several dishes, as well as food decorating using fruit and vegetables. We got to make our own steamed rice paper for making fresh spring rolls and also attempted to cook Banh Xeo, otherwise known as Hoi An pancakes. The lesson concluded making Eggplant in a claypot and after it’s completion, we all sat and enjoyed our own claypot dishes with rice, steamed ocean fish with vegetables and platter of seasonal fruit including bananas (which haven’t been affected by the Queensland floods, and are in plentiful supply), dragonfruit, mango and pineapple.

Our cheeky chef for the day

 Watching the action from above on the 'Vietnamese TV'

The claypots simmering prior to lunch

The day finished with a leisurely cruise back to Hoi An via some of the canals around the area that showed us even more of the life along the Thu Bon River.

Local fisherwomen searching and sifting for clams 

Fishing boats tied up at Hoi An 

Tomorrow we have designated as a rest day so there probably won't be whole lotta news. However, if anything happens, you'll read it first here!!!

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Day 5 - Hoi An

Up and at them early again this morning hoping to get some shopping done, however we were beaten (and beaten good) by the early heat and so we sought the refuge of the local Hoi an markets for some relief from the direct sunlight.

One of several Hoi An markets that sell just about anything

Mrs Col. Sanders preps another bird for the fryer

A kettle ready for the boil early in the morning


Some of the breakfast fare at the Hoi An markets

We decided to catch the early bus back to the Trails resort and we hit the pool as quick as we could get changed to cool off. Weather wise, we have not seen a lot of rain. Whilst it is the wet season up here, we have only witnessed a 10 minute downpour in Saigon since arriving in Vietnam. The heat is pretty fierce in the direct sunlight, however relief can usually be sought under a tree, awning, tarp or whatever is providing shade.

For lunch today, we decided to try the nearby CoCo Restaurant some 50 metres from the Trails and enjoyed some Green Mango Salad, Chicken with Lemongrass and Chilli, a couple of local beers and a coke for around a $A12 (that would be about the same price as a couple of McTurds and fries at home I guess)

Green Mango Salad for lunch at CoCo's Restaurant

 View of the Thu Bon River from CoCo's Restaurant

Back in the pool post lunch (we waited 30 minutes like Mum said) before relaxing in the room during the afternoon. Later in the day, we headed back to Hoi An town to negotiate some prices on  some local pottery that Michelle fell in love with last trip, and managed to score a couple of good deals that will no doubt fill the suitcase on the trip home. We also managed to get a look at the hand made silk embroidery gallery to witness some of the most realistic and amazing embroidery you will ever see.

One of the embroiderers at work 

Sugar cane ready for pulping into an instant drink

Tonight we attended a weekly BBQ at the resort where one selects several different morsels to eat and the chefs ‘whack it on the barby for ya!’ Whilst it was very Vietnam orientated, I guess it was still the best barby we have had since we’ve been here! Add a bucket’o’beer and we were settled in for the evening!!! Entertainment for the night included traditional Champa dancing performed by local dancers.

The Hoi An Trails Resort BBQ chef prepares another dish

One of the traditional Champa dancers performing on BBQ night

Tomorrow we have booked on Floating Cooking School along the Thu Bon River. It should be a bit of fun, we will let you know how it goes...

Friday, July 22, 2011

Day 4 - Ho Chi Minh to Hoi An

We were up early this morning for breakfast before meeting the Travel Indochina driver for our transfer to the airport and flight to Hoi An via Da Nang. We bid farewell to the Elios staff who, like our last trip, could not be faulted in any way.

The roundabout at Ben Thanh Markets - Look left, then right, then left, then right, then left....


After spending a few hours at the airport, we had an early lunch and departed to Da Nang. Oddly, it is one of the only airports we have been to where the airline staff check that your baggage numbers match against the receipts on your boarding pass before you can depart the terminal.

You get the feeling Da Nang is going to be the new playground of Vietnam as construction here is endless. A brand new international airport is underway and the road to Hoi An is littered with the names of every major hotel or resort you can imagine scrambling for sand along the beachfront to build.

We arrived in Hoi An at about 1.30pm local time to be greeted with the standard welcoming fruit drink whilst awaiting check in, then up to the room, dump the bags and into the pool…

Later in the afternoon, we unloaded our washing on Miss Van across the road from the resort before heading into town for a bite and a look around before retiring for the night. We have noticed that internet connections are a bit flaky here in Hoi An and our blog may suffer irregularly because of this. Sorry folks!

We nearly bought some but they didn't have any in a colour we liked!

Tomorrow we shop......

Holiday Fun Fact #2: In some parts of Vietnam, Facebook and other Social Networking media is unavailable....Ouch! Hoi An is one of those places!

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Day 3 - Mekong Delta

Apologies for the brief story yesterday as Murray copped a bit of the dreaded ‘Bali Belly’ or it’s Vietnamese brother which took it’s toll overnight and into today.

I am sure there is at least 2 ways to pronounce this.....

Today we headed out on an organised tour to My Tho (pronounced ‘mee toe’) for a look at the Mekong Delta. We headed off at about 7.45 this morning and rounded up the rest of the bus load of tourist in Saigon before heading south on a 2 hour drive to My Tho. Whilst the bus trip was uneventful, it did show us the life of the rice farmer as we headed down highways surrounded by rice paddies as far as the eye can see.


One of the tourist motor boats near My Tho plying his trade


When we arrived at My Tho, we were herded onto a tourist motor boat to cross the Mekong River to Unicorn Island. The trip over was a little surreal, it’s a bit hard to believe you’re riding on it! At Unicorn Island we sampled the local honey and fruits available on the island and during the sampling of all the fruit, we were serenaded by the local band before heading back to the canals for a row boat ride back to the tourist boat dock.


Vietnamese tea served with the local honey


Michelle grapples with the local bees on Unicorn Island


The youngest of the singers who entertained us whilst we sampled the local fruit


One of the many row boats in the Mekong canals


We then departed for Turtle Island, number 2 of 4 islands on the Mekong near My Tho. At Turtle Island we were taken to a traditional Vietnamese lunch (not for Murray) and for the adventurous, a bike ride around the village (not for Murray or Michelle this time!). The bike ride ended with one of the Japanese girls on the tour falling from her bike into a small canal, resulting in her being saturated from head to toe. Following the bike ride, we were treated to a horse drawn cart ride back to a coconut candy making operation on the island. The cart was a typically Vietnamese affair with wooden seats and the only suspension supplied by the several PSI of air in the tyres. I renamed the ride ”The Haemorrhoid Express” as some of the bumps we hit certainly made you sit up straight. We swear when we got on board the cart and shifted the centre of balance somewhat, the horse turned to the driver and said “You’re kidding me right?”

Paleface Adios struggles to climb the hill and finish the final 400....

The candy making facility is almost prehistoric and all the candy is hand made, hand cut and hand wrapped before sale. It was quite an education watching it being made. They use rice paper as the inner wrapper so it is edible along with the candy! Smart bastards!

Our last night in Saigon was a quiet one with dinner at the Hotel rooftop restaurant enjoying some Pho as we haven’t had any since arriving.


Pho and beer.... made for each other

Tomorrow sees us off to Hoi An to let us put the holiday in neutral instead of racing around like madmen as we have for the past few days…. and Yibbita Yibbita, That’s All Folks!

Holiday Fun Fact #1: M&M's in your bag in Saigon's 35 degree heat does not end happily!

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Day 2 - Ho Chi Minh

Today was a big one! We managed to get started early with a trip to the local supermarket to pick up some supplies. With the supermarket shopping done, it was back down to Ben Thanh markets to finish the clothing shopping before we head off to Hoi An in a few days.

Murray heads back from Ben Thanh

Morning Tea... maybe a few calories

Don't you love drink dispensers with beer!

After lunch at the Elios, we took a cab to Dong Khoi Street, known for its French influenced buildings and home to the Majestic Hotel on the waterfront. We also had the chance to visit the Saigon Post Office and the Notre Dame cathedral before heading back to the Hotel to freshen up before heading out on a dinner cruise on the Saigon River aboard the “Pearl of The Orient”.

The Majestic Hotel on the waterfront of the Saigon River

The Saigon Opera House on Dong Khoi Street

Inside the Saigon Post Office complete with Uncle Ho portrait on back wall

Outside the Notre Dame Cathedral

Prior to the cruise, we opted for a set menu dinner for $US20 per person that consisted of 6 courses. We swear there was enough food to feed an army for a week and we struggled to get through it.

On board the "Pearl of the Orient"

Dish #2 - Shrimp in Tamarind Sauce

Dish #4 - Fried "Tai Turong" Fish Finger

View of Saigon from the river 

Tomorrow we are booked to head down to My Tho and the Mekong Delta for the day. So until we get back tomorrow, it’s goodnight from me and it's good night from him!